Sanjusangendo is probably my favorite temple in Kyoto. Most tourist guides urge you to go to the Golden or Silver Pavilions, but I say Sanjusangendo is far more worth your time.
To get there it's easiest to take the Keihan train line to its Shichijo stop. It's 150 yen from either the Sanjo or Gion-Shijo stations. You want to use Exit 2 from the station. It will bring you up on a corner of an intersection right across from the Kamo River. Walk up Shichijo St. east, away from the river. You will come to Sanjusangendo in about 3 blocks. You will see the wall around the grounds first- keep walking, the entrance is on the next corner!
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| The longest wooden building in Japan, stuffed with AMAZING. |
It costs 600 yen to get in, and you get a short pamphlet that will give you the pertinent information on the temple, including how it used to be an imperial residence. You need to take your shoes off before you go in- one time I was here they made us carry our shoes through with us in a bag (lame), but last time they were back to letting you leave your shoes on shelves. It might depend on how busy they are and if there is a large tour group coming through, but no worries- your shoes are perfectly safe when you leave them behind.
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| So much better than carrying them. | | |
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Once you move into the main part of the building, no photography is allowed, and there are plenty of signs to tell you this. There is incense burning and you really feel like this is a holy spot. The 1001 statues of Kannon, bodhisattva of mercy are lined up in rows down the length of the building. There are so many statues that all look similar, but they say that you can find one that looks like you, so that's what many visitors are looking for while they are there.
In the center of the temple is the main image (the 1001st), which is larger and different than the other statues. There are many prayer candles and booklets you can buy there. Since this is my favorite temple, I bought a cool portable paper shrine that unfolds and has the prayer written on it (only 2000 yen!). You can also buy offerings to leave. There is a monk on duty, but they don't usually speak much English.
In front of all the Kannon statues are 28 statues of the Guardians of the Buddha. These are some of my favorite statues in the building- I can spend over 30 minutes just looking at the detail on them. On some of the statues you can still see traces of painted designs. Since they are in front they are much easier to see, and each one has a description posted to tell you about who they are. The defenders are a pretty varied group of deities- they include the famous Raijin and Fujin, lightning and wind gods, but my favorite is this guy:
He's got a beak, but somehow he's playing the flute (and tapping time)! Last time I was there, a teenage girl asked her father, "If he doesn't have lips, how can he play the flute?" I was standing nearby and cut in, "That's what I want to know!!" Her dad tried whistling without pursing his lips for a few minutes, but in the end it was decided that it must be a "God-thing".
After you see all the statues you round a corner and walk back up the back side of the hall. This area is a museum with information on how the hall was built. There is also a display on the
Toshiya, an archery tournament held every year at Sanjusangendo.
You loop back through to the gift shop and your shoes. I would recommend spending a little time on the grounds. They are not especially spectacular but are very pleasant on a nice day!
Across the street from Sanjusangendo is the Kyoto National Museum if you are up for more fabulous artwork. On the way back to the Keihan you will pass a curry shop called "Curry House Coco Ichibanya". Although it's a chain, it's very cheap and delicious! I make a point of stopping here after a trip to Sanjusangendo to recharge. Mmmm, curry!
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| Shichijo St. curry - a nice pick me up! |
Thus ends our tour of Sanjusangendo, my favorite temple in the city!
