Back in the game

My last trip to Japan was a bit different than I had planned. I ended up catching the flu and not being able to do almost any of the things I had planned. But now I am back, and ready to keep blogging about all the good times I have had in Kyoto, so keep an eye out for more posts coming soon!

Coming up:
Fushimi Inari Shrine
Iwatayama Monkey Park
Mseum of Traditional Hairstyles

Otagi Nenbutsuji

Otagi Nenbutsji is a small temple located in northern Arashiyama. It's so small that even though I've been to Arashiyama many times, last year was the first time I visited it. I was surprised at how close it was to Adashino Nenbutsuji- how can I have never gone before?

To get to Otagi Nenbutsuji you need to walk through most of Arashiyama. Since that would be a long, long paragraph of directions, I'm going to start from Adashino Nenbutsuji and write a longer post on the walk through Arashiyama later. There is also a decent map on the temple website, but it starts from the JR station and I think the walk is best started from the Hankyu Arashiyama station.

Looking down the street from Adashino Nenbutsuji.

Starting from Adashino, head north up the Saga-Toriimoto Preserved Street. If you are just leaving Adashino Nenbutsuji this means you will be turning left. The street looks mainly residential, with a few shops. One shop directly across from Adashino sells handmade felt boxes that look like cake. They're extraordinarily detailed, with felt fruit and frosting, and the artist makes them right in front of you! The family that runs the shop is incredibly nice so I always make a point of stopping by and picking up some delicious looking gifts for friends.

Tiny felt cakes

You will pass traditional thatched roofed houses.

 After about a block the street forks. This is where I got confused on my visit. Stay to the RIGHT of the fork. If you go left (like I did) you will find yourself on a pleasant forest road that winds for 3 kilometers before reaching a train station. There is nothing for forest along the way, and the ladies at the cake box shop told me that bears, wild boar and monkeys can be encountered on the road in the summer! So stay safe and keep RIGHT, especially if you are traveling solo.

Don't go this way!

The fork to right continues past houses and then appears to also be entering the forest. No worries! After about 100 feet you will see Otagi Nenbutsuji on your left! Entrance is 300 yen, hours are 8 AM to 5 PM.

 Otagi Nenbutsuji is full of statues. They are all carved by amateurs (instructed by a master) and represent the disciples of the Buddha. Each one is different, and there are some very funny figures! Happy statues, grumpy statues, serene statues, statues bowling, pouring sake, listening to walkmans(!), even one that looks like Mike Tyson! Although they are covered in moss, they were created only in the 1980s. There is a temple bell you can ring. Ask the staff the correct order, since there are 3 bells!

 On my last visit I only saw three other people here, and they didn't stay long. While it's a little out of the way to reach, this is a great place to really take your time, enjoy the atmosphere and the quiet. 

                              

Capricciosa

Capricciosa sign, courtesy of Hey Ladies!

Capricciosa is a chain Italian restaurant found all over Japan. Don't be fooled by its chain status- it actually serves up tasty family style food with great service in all of its locations. Everyone I have ever brought here to eat (including my mother, brother, aunt and best friend) have all loved it and wanted to come back to it ASAP. One trip we ended up eating here every day! They gave us a "membership card" that gave us 10% off at their location which made it a great economical choice where everyone could order something they liked.

Rice Croquette in tomato sauce. This is an appetizer, folks!

My favorite Capricciosa location is in the OPA building in downtown Kyoto. Located at the major crossroad of Shijo and Kawaramachi, the building is located on the northwest side of the intersection (across the street from the Takashimaya Department Store). The restaurant is on the 4th floor of the building, right by the elevators. Not all of the elevators stop at the 4th floor for some weird reason. I usually take the wheelchair access one (bad, I know!) because it will stop on 4.

My menu recommendations: Sicilian-style Rice Croquette (appetizer), Pumpkin Gnocchi and Sausage in Tomato Cream Sauce (smaller entree), Spaghetti with Crab Meat in Tomato Cream Sauce (larger entree), Penne Arrabbiata (larger entree) and Lasagna Gratin Capricciosa-style (smaller entree).

Pumpkin Gnocchi, my favorite.

The pizzas are decent, and the calzones look HUGE but are actually mostly puffed up with air. Garlic bread isn't really worth it you get such a small piece, but maybe I am too used to the US where they bring you a basket. There is also a risotto I heard was good. They used to serve squid ink pasta, but I don't see it on the menu these days. If you do have the chance to order it, it tastes like buttery, fishy pasta, and will turn your mouth and tongue black!

Crab Pasta, courtesy of Hey Ladies!

One of my favorite parts of the meal at Capricciosa is the after-dinner drink service. Your waiter will ask you whether you prefer coffee or tea, hot or cold and bring you your selection. It's not a huge cup, just a nice refresher after your meal. You'll have time to kick back and chat with friends, and it doesn't feel like they are rushing you out of the restaurant.

Risotto, courtesy of Hey Ladies!

 Bon Appetit!